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Fingerboard 101: Seven Steps to Stronger Fingers

Ben Moon once said: “Technique is no substitute for power”. He then created the Moon Board to prove to most of us that we aren’t nearly as strong as we think. Now, don’t get me wrong.I absolutely believe that great technique is essential for hard climbing.However, Mr. Moon’s point is that if you can’t even pull the move, then all of that technique is really just theory. Fingerboards (or hangboards, as some call them), are one of my favorite instruments to improve that strength.Now to be clear, strength and power are not the same thing.Strength is how much you can lift (or pull in our case).Power is the ability to move that weight through ....
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Goal setting, Chinese water torture, and a toast for 2020!

. . .and that’s a take! 2019 is officially going to end in just a few days.And with that drop of the ball in Times Square, not only does a new year begin, but a new decade.Welcome to 2020! New Years naturally bring reflections.We think back to all that went right and all the went wrong the past year, and if you are like most individuals, your ‘ all that went wrong’ column is likely considerably longer than your ‘ all that went right’ column.
The reason for that is simple actually.As humans, we are programed to remember pain.That was particularly important thousands of years ago as our forefathers discover important life lessons: like never using ....
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Life on the other side of the plateau - Rediscovering your psych

Do you remember when you first fell in love with rock climbing?That first route you completed?The exhilaration of climbing so high up? The thrill and excitement of progressively hitting higher and higher grades? Climbing, like many other endeavors, has a steep and quick growth phase for most.Successes seem to almost rain out of the sky: your first time to the top of the wall; your first time climbing more than an hour without your arms exploding; your first 5.7; your first 5.8, 5.9, maybe even 5:10.Your first belay lesson.Your lead certification. And then it happens: The plateau! You seem stuck. New grades are almost impossible to break into. Worse yet, ....
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Maximum torque for the send: Nutritional hacks for rock climbers.

Last October I bought a new motorcycle.It’s a 2018 Yamaha MT-09 (supposedly the ‘MT’ stands for maximum torque).It is a blast to ride.Super quick and yes . . . torquey.The first few days that I was riding it, I couldn’t get this silly grin off of my face.It was just so much fun.I raced motocross in my younger days, and this street bike actually reminded me of one of my race dirt bikes. Then the fuel light came on.Stopping at our local QT, I quickly filled up was off again. But it wasn’t quite the same.The bike didn’t feel as responsive.That’s when I looked at the little sticker by the fuel cap: PREMIUM UNLEADED GASOLINE ONLY.
I had purchased a ....
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The Chair

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” --Ernest Hemingway Have you ever noticed how much life happens in a chair? Your newborn is rocked to sleep in a chair. The student takes her math test in a chair. Couple’s plan their future in a chair. The corporate board builds it’s empire in a chair. All great campfire stories are told in a chair. Grandpa re-lives the good-ole-days in a chair. And we reminisce and remember those we have lost in a chair. Yet, chairs really don’t get the respect that they deserve. If someone spends too much time on one, we call that person a ....
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Poker, lady luck, and the power of altruism

When I was a young boy of 10 or 11, my summers were filled with late nights hanging out in smoke filled hotel rooms playing five-card draw.You see my dad was a traveling salesman; and during summers, when I didn’t’ have school, he would allow me to travel with him.After a long day of calling on clients and eating truck-stop chicken-fried steaks, he would often invite over a number of his fellow salesmen for a friendly game of poker.And me being his “number one son” (meaning oldest, not favorite, although at those moments it felt like I was a favorite), I was privileged to partake in said games. I remember one such night.Lady luck was dealing the cards, and she ....
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Why your kid should be rock climbing

We’ve all read the posts and seen the memes, reminders of how hard life ‘used’ to be (when we were kids) and how ‘easy’ it is for this generation.The implication being that all of our over protection and pampering and participation awards, while meant to strengthen our children’s self-esteem, might actually be harming it. And then there is the national addiction to electronic devices and virtual experience.We know hours-on-hours in front of a video monitor can’t be good, but what’s a parent to do? I mean, at least it keeps them quiet and out of the Tide Pods. Now don’t get me wrong.I love my iPhone and positive reinforcement and ....
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An interview with JohnPaul Seberger - Rock Climber

Three and a half years ago, this skinny 9 year old walked into our gym with his dad. He said he wanted to climb. He said he loved climbing trees. He said his mom told him our newly formed climbing team would be a good choice for him. I smiled politely (and maybe rolled my eyes just a bit) We signed him up for our climbing team. JohnPaul literally had no idea what he was getting into. Seems Mrs. Seberger knew her son pretty well, however. JP had found his soulmate. He became enamored with everything climbing. And if you also happened to like climbing . . . well you were instantly JohnPaul's best friend. I remember shortly after this, he walked up to our ProShop and purchased a quickdraw ....
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How to climb V9 in six months. Why some climbers progress at breakneck speeds.

“ That is so cool. How do you do that? ” “ Wow!You’re strong!! How long have you been climbing? ” “ I am totally jealous of you right now. ” I probably hear some version of those comments every month or so. I must be awesome, right? (My mom thinks so).OK, maybe not. Actually it’s probably more representative that someone of my age is climbing at all (just wanted to get that comment in before you did).The truth though is that to a newer climber, even modest skill can look very impressive.However, after three years of running a climbing gym, I’ve learned to not let the praise go to my head.More often than not, those ....
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How Exercise Can Help You Fight Your Addiction

Recovering from an addiction is far more complex than just stopping the habit and showing up to counseling. You need to give yourself the tools to cope with withdrawal and for the hole in your life left behind by your habit. Exercise, with its myriad mental health benefits and its potential for an immediate feel-good rush, is amongst the best of these tools. How Does Fitness Help?
There are several ways in which physical fitness can help when recovering from an addiction. The most obvious one is that intense exercise can create a “high” that can act as a healthy substitute for the high from a drug. According to Shape, you are more likely to experience this after ....
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Jason Kruse

From a vacant field to a full service bouldering and climbing complex David Kortje and his family made this place a reality. It didn't take long for a community of climbers to grow and improve when you have the available resources and route setters busting out new routes and cleaning holds every week. The staff has taken climber feedback and made the gym a symbiotic facility that has flourished. Myself and others are very grateful that he brought this to Wichita. Even our grass routes climbing club that was our main climbing location has grown and changed along with the growing climbing needs of the community. It is great to see such a strong climbing community emerge out of all of this development.

Priya Fernandes

Bliss is a great place for climbers for all levels of experience. The routes are fantastic, and whether you are just trying out rock climbing for the first time or someone who is skilled, Bliss has something for everyone. They have fabulous, encouraging and friendly staff members who are ever ready to help if you have questions or need climbing tips. It is a wonderful place to not only get a good workout (and have fun doing it) but also meet new people. Recommend it if you are looking for something fun and challenging to do.

Alex Hogan

Having been to many gyms (not necessarily climbing), Bliss is the most welcoming and friendly one I've ever been to. The staff is amazing and always willing to help; the other members are encouraging and will always give advice to try and make you better. Far from being just a place to work out, it's becoming a place where I can meet up with my friends. It's clean, the routes change frequently enough to not get bored, and has additional amenities such as a treadmill, elliptical, and kettle bells.

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