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A Crisis in Youth Fitness

“ Back when I was a kid . . .”, . . . said every parent who ever raised a child, whether in 2020 or 1620. It’s true.Life is always changing, and our kiddos will never have the same experience we had growing up; just like we didn’t have the same experience our parents had. For one, youth in 2020 have so many more opportunities to access information and education than we ever would have dreamt of in the 1980’s and 90’s.Communication, travel, health care, and entertainment have likewise advanced, connecting our world in a way that has never before been possible. However, there is one area that is of great concern for myself and many others in ....
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The Piano Man and the Climbing Gym: a Recipe for a Climbing Community

Now Paul is a real estate novelist Who never had time for a wife And he's talkin' with Davy, who's still in the Navy And probably will be for life -Billy Joel, Piano Man I love the great story teller musicians, and Billy Joel is one of the best. As I listed to Piano Man a few weeks ago; listened to the individuals: the waitress practicing politics, the business man just trying to chill; I realized that I could just as easily be sitting in our gym watching the climbers. Much like an episode of Cheers or The Office, the climbing gym is a grouping of many different personalities from multiple facets of life. And it is so fascinating for me to just observe it all. ....
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Fingerboard 101: Seven Steps to Stronger Fingers

Ben Moon once said: “Technique is no substitute for power”. He then created the Moon Board to prove to most of us that we aren’t nearly as strong as we think. Now, don’t get me wrong.I absolutely believe that great technique is essential for hard climbing.However, Mr. Moon’s point is that if you can’t even pull the move, then all of that technique is really just theory. Fingerboards (or hangboards, as some call them), are one of my favorite instruments to improve that strength.Now to be clear, strength and power are not the same thing.Strength is how much you can lift (or pull in our case).Power is the ability to move that weight through ....
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Goal setting, Chinese water torture, and a toast for 2020!

. . .and that’s a take! 2019 is officially going to end in just a few days.And with that drop of the ball in Times Square, not only does a new year begin, but a new decade.Welcome to 2020! New Years naturally bring reflections.We think back to all that went right and all the went wrong the past year, and if you are like most individuals, your ‘ all that went wrong’ column is likely considerably longer than your ‘ all that went right’ column.
The reason for that is simple actually.As humans, we are programed to remember pain.That was particularly important thousands of years ago as our forefathers discover important life lessons: like never using ....
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Life on the other side of the plateau - Rediscovering your psych

Do you remember when you first fell in love with rock climbing?That first route you completed?The exhilaration of climbing so high up? The thrill and excitement of progressively hitting higher and higher grades? Climbing, like many other endeavors, has a steep and quick growth phase for most.Successes seem to almost rain out of the sky: your first time to the top of the wall; your first time climbing more than an hour without your arms exploding; your first 5.7; your first 5.8, 5.9, maybe even 5:10.Your first belay lesson.Your lead certification. And then it happens: The plateau! You seem stuck. New grades are almost impossible to break into. Worse yet, ....
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Maximum torque for the send: Nutritional hacks for rock climbers.

Last October I bought a new motorcycle.It’s a 2018 Yamaha MT-09 (supposedly the ‘MT’ stands for maximum torque).It is a blast to ride.Super quick and yes . . . torquey.The first few days that I was riding it, I couldn’t get this silly grin off of my face.It was just so much fun.I raced motocross in my younger days, and this street bike actually reminded me of one of my race dirt bikes. Then the fuel light came on.Stopping at our local QT, I quickly filled up was off again. But it wasn’t quite the same.The bike didn’t feel as responsive.That’s when I looked at the little sticker by the fuel cap: PREMIUM UNLEADED GASOLINE ONLY.
I had purchased a ....
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The Chair

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” --Ernest Hemingway Have you ever noticed how much life happens in a chair? Your newborn is rocked to sleep in a chair. The student takes her math test in a chair. Couple’s plan their future in a chair. The corporate board builds it’s empire in a chair. All great campfire stories are told in a chair. Grandpa re-lives the good-ole-days in a chair. And we reminisce and remember those we have lost in a chair. Yet, chairs really don’t get the respect that they deserve. If someone spends too much time on one, we call that person a ....
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Poker, lady luck, and the power of altruism

When I was a young boy of 10 or 11, my summers were filled with late nights hanging out in smoke filled hotel rooms playing five-card draw.You see my dad was a traveling salesman; and during summers, when I didn’t’ have school, he would allow me to travel with him.After a long day of calling on clients and eating truck-stop chicken-fried steaks, he would often invite over a number of his fellow salesmen for a friendly game of poker.And me being his “number one son” (meaning oldest, not favorite, although at those moments it felt like I was a favorite), I was privileged to partake in said games. I remember one such night.Lady luck was dealing the cards, and she ....
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Why your kid should be rock climbing

We’ve all read the posts and seen the memes, reminders of how hard life ‘used’ to be (when we were kids) and how ‘easy’ it is for this generation.The implication being that all of our over protection and pampering and participation awards, while meant to strengthen our children’s self-esteem, might actually be harming it. And then there is the national addiction to electronic devices and virtual experience.We know hours-on-hours in front of a video monitor can’t be good, but what’s a parent to do? I mean, at least it keeps them quiet and out of the Tide Pods. Now don’t get me wrong.I love my iPhone and positive reinforcement and ....
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An interview with JohnPaul Seberger - Rock Climber

Three and a half years ago, this skinny 9 year old walked into our gym with his dad. He said he wanted to climb. He said he loved climbing trees. He said his mom told him our newly formed climbing team would be a good choice for him. I smiled politely (and maybe rolled my eyes just a bit) We signed him up for our climbing team. JohnPaul literally had no idea what he was getting into. Seems Mrs. Seberger knew her son pretty well, however. JP had found his soulmate. He became enamored with everything climbing. And if you also happened to like climbing . . . well you were instantly JohnPaul's best friend. I remember shortly after this, he walked up to our ProShop and purchased a quickdraw ....
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Shelby Ruff

Staff was so thorough, informative, helpful and friendly. I met some great people and kids! One mother was there with her young ADHD daughter and I realized how climbing can help you focus, accomplish goals and gain confidence. Wished we had this in Northern Iowa! With this being my sons first climb we will be hard pressed to find ANYTHING that can compare to Bliss! Thank you!

Allen S.

I found out about bliss in July and been eagerly waiting its opening. I took my son there and we climbed for two hours. I felt like I was a regular there as everyone was helpful and willing to answer any question I had, no matter how simple. Between the bouldering wall and the auto-belay we had a ton of fun. There is only 4 auto-belays so can't wait to learn how to belay so my son could climb a lot more routes, and find a buddy to belay me.

David Weaver

This is an amazing place to climb and get a great workout. Staff were friendly and helpful. My son and I had a blast, we will be back!

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