Maximum torque for the send: Nutritional hacks for rock climbers
Last October I bought a new motorcycle. It’s a 2018 Yamaha MT-09 (supposedly the ‘MT’ stands for maximum torque). It is a blast to ride. Super quick and yes . . . torquey. The first few days that I was riding it, I couldn’t get this silly grin off of my face. It was just so much fun. I raced motocross […]
How to climb V9 in six months – Why some climbers progress at breakneck speeds
“That is so cool. How do you do that?” “Wow! You’re strong!! How long have you been climbing?” “I am totally jealous of you right now.” I probably hear some version of those comments every month or so. I must be awesome, right? (My mom thinks so). OK, maybe not. Actually it’s probably more representative that someone […]
Injury Prevention
Injury prevention is one of those things we tend to look past until we wind up hurt. Regardless if you are training for a big event, training to climb one grade higher, climbing for fitness or simply climbing for the fun of it, it’s always best to remember to take care of your body! Given […]
Respect the toes, an essential climbing skill
Toes just don’t get the recognition that they deserve. On the very end of your body, they are the last to get blood flow and so also the last to warm up on these recent sub-zero mornings. Toes spend most their lives hidden in foot wear or terribly embarrassing stockings, get bumped and bruised daily, […]
The weakest link? Or the sexy, beautiful and strong? What are you focusing your training on?
How many of you remember the TV game show: The Weakest Link? It touted teams against each other with trivia questions; but the best part was that after each round, the players would vote off one player that wasn’t quite carrying the team with the words “You are the weakest link. Good-bye”. The original show […]
Fueling your sends: a smoothie recipe
Mom always said the secret was in the heat. “Sprinkle a little water on the pan,” she would say. “If it immediately sizzles, it’s ready.” She then showed me how to grease the pan with a slab of butter before placing the bread with just the right amount of Velveeta cheese between the two slices on the hot griddle. […]
Carlosing and the traversing of ARC training: how to quit fatiguing on those long routes
A few years ago my good friend and climbing partner, Naise, and I were in Joe’s Valley Utah playing on some truly amazing boulders (that was before we opened a gym and then had no time to go outdoors😢). Joe’s is hands down one of my favorite bouldering locations, boasting classic problems from V0 to […]
The secret to awesomeness – Why you need a coach in 2017
What do LaBron James, Bill Clinton, Hugh Jackman, Alex Puccio, and yours truly (me) all have in common? If you said awesomeness, you would ALMOST be right (let’s face it, awesome is a pretty generous word to describe Jackman, don’t you think?) The CORRECT answer would be that each of these individuals have utilized coaching during key […]
The secret wisdom of a sleeping cat, resting to get stronger
I have about a dozen cats. I’m not proud of that fact. 😔 We live in the country, and so cats are a necessary part of life. They keep the mice and rat population at bay and provide exercise for my dog (why he keeps chasing them when he knows they are within a few […]
H.I.T. me please: Training for strength and endurance (and frat boys)
A few years ago I was at my most favorite bouldering location of all time: Joe’s Valley in Utah. Naise and I had found this amazing problem that climbed out of a completely flat roof in a cave. It was powerful and delicate and balancy all at the same time. I worked on it for […]
