Assisted Braking Device (ABD) Policy
Effective Date: January 2, 2026
Starting 2026, all belayers at Bliss Climbing and Fitness will be required to use assisted braking belay devices (“ABD”) for top-rope and lead belaying.
Policy Overview
- All belayers must use an approved ABD.
- An approved ABD is any device that is specifically designed as an assisted braking belay device, meets UIAA certification standards, is not restricted by Bliss Climbing and Fitness for operational or policy reasons, and must be used according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Belayers are solely responsible for being properly trained and competent with the device they are using, including understanding how to operate it, feed rope, catch, and lower climbers.
- Bliss reserves the right to disapprove the use of any specific device at any time, without notice, for reasons including recalls, safety concerns, or issues identified by the climbing community.
Why Bliss is Moving to Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs)
- Enhanced Risk Management – ABDs act as an extra layer of risk mitigation as they can assist belayers in managing a fall when used correctly, potentially improving reliability in some scenarios.
- Built-in Redundancy – These devices incorporate design features to enhance belay control when used properly.
- Reduces Risk from Error – ABDs may help reduce the impact of certain belay errors, but do not replace proper attention or training.
This policy aligns with indoor climbing gym industry best practices and reflects a growing number of gyms in the Midwest and nationwide that now require ABDs, supporting belayers in managing climbs responsibly.
How ABDs Compare to Tube-Style Devices
Assisted braking devices may help mitigate the likelihood of certain belay errors when used correctly. Unlike traditional tube-style devices, which rely entirely on the belayer’s braking technique, ABDs offer built-in redundancy to mitigate risk.
The fundamental belay techniques are similar between tube-style devices and most modern ABDs, however, each device functions differently, and belayers must understand the specific operation of their chosen device before use.
What Qualifies as an Assisted Braking Device (ABD)?
Assisted braking devices come in a variety of styles to suit different climbing preferences and skill levels.
Examples of approved ABD devices for in-gym use include:
- Passive brake-assist devices: Black Diamond ATC-Pilot, Edelrid MegaJul, Mammut Smart
- Active brake-assist devices: Petzl GriGri/Neox, Trango Vergo, Mad Rock Lifeguard
This is not a complete list and device examples are provided for reference only and do not constitute endorsement by Bliss Climbing and Fitness. If you have questions about whether a specific device is approved for use at Bliss, please check with gym management.
Transitioning from Tube-Style Devices
For belayers transitioning from a traditional ATC, the Black Diamond ATC-Pilot offers a familiar handling style with added brake-assist functionality, making it a common choice for those learning ABD techniques.
Active devices (e.g. Petzl GriGri) may require additional practice due to unique handling techniques. Bliss staff may provide basic orientation on commonly used models, but this is not a substitute for formal instruction. Climbers are responsible for obtaining proper training and demonstrating competence with the specific device they choose to use. Only approved assisted braking devices that meet UIAA certification standards may be used at Bliss.
Training at Bliss
- The Black Diamond ATC-Pilot will now be used in belay classes requiring all students to demonstrate proper use before being certified through Bliss.
- If you are not taking a class at Bliss, you are responsible for ensuring that your ABD is approved, properly used, and that you are fully competent with it.
Participation in climbing involves inherent risk. This policy is intended to promote responsible and consistent practices by requiring belayers to use the approved devices correctly. Competency in use does not eliminate risk. Bliss staff hold the authority to restrict or revoke belay privileges if improper use of a belay device is observed. All participants must adhere to Bliss Climbing and Fitness policies and manufacturer instructions.
Version 1 – Effective January 2, 2026
